Tips on Choosing the Best Embroidery Transfer Tools
How to Transfer Embroidery Patterns Onto Fabric
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Transferring your pattern or design is one of the most difficult tasks when creating an embroidery project. Transfer methods have improved over the years, but unfortunately, a “one-size-fits-all” approach does not exist. You will likely need to be adept at several of the techniques reviewed in this article, as not one single method will work for all types of designs, fabric colors, or fabric weights.
This post is meant to give an overview on the various transfer methods available. The products linked in this article are examples of the method explained, and I have not necessarily tried each of the tools linked here.
Ways to Transfer Your Design
There are 2 basic ways to transfer an embroidery pattern:
The design is transferred or drawn directly onto the fabric via pen, pencil, or transfer paper; or
The design is printed or drawn onto paper or stabilizer, and then temporarily attached to the top of the base fabric. In this method, the embroidery stitches pass through both the base fabric and the transfer paper. The paper/stabilizer is removed once stitching is complete.
I’ve further broken down these 2 transfer methods into more specific categories. These categories represent the method used for removing or covering the design markings after stitching is complete. For example, some methods require soaking the fabric, while other methods may not allow for marking removal at all.
Consider the marking removal method carefully as you decide which transfer method you will use for your project. Also take into consideration the color of your fabric (light or dark) and the weight of your fabric (light, medium, or heavy).
Suggested Tools & Recommendations
If your fabric is medium to lightweight, I highly suggest using a light table to trace your design. This method is simple and easy, and produces good results. I often hear that using a window can be sufficient, but I suggest saving yourself some frustration and buying a light table. It is worth the small investment! I use a dimmable 19” light table similar to the one found here.
To use the lightbox method (typically for light to medium weight fabrics), there are two ways to trace your design.
Tape a printed copy of your design onto the back side of the fabric. Trace the design through the fabric. The tape keeps the design in the same spot on the fabric, leaving you free to move the fabric around while you draw the design.
For more intricate designs, hoop your fabric backwards in the hoop, that is, with the right side of the fabric facing you when you flip the hoop to lay flat on the lightbox. Again, tape the printed design to the back of the hoop and trace your design. The hoop keeps the fabric extra taught which ensures the most accurate tracing.
Other Transfer Methods
There are many other methods for transferring designs onto fabric not mentioned in this post (such as pouncing and dressmaker’s chalk). I however, have not used these methods as I have found the modern methods of transferring both simple and easy.
If you find that a method not mentioned here works for you, by all means, please use it! These are simply the methods I have used over the years. Keep reading to find out which methods are best for your project.
9 Methods for Transferring Embroidery Designs
1 —
Fabric Pens
Although most of these tools are referred to as pens, I have seen both pen-like ones that come with a ballpoint tip and others that have felt tips, like markers. Just be aware that a transfer tool called a “pen” may not actually be a pen!
For very intricate designs, the finest tip I have found is the Dritz “Fine Line” air erasable pen. This is a felt-tip marker pen, and as such, it usually takes several strokes to lay enough ink onto the fabric for your lines to be strong and easily seen. Because of this, I would not recommend the marker tipped pens for fine or delicate fabrics. They also do not work well on felt, wool, or any other “fuzzy” fabric.
The 3 categories of fabric pens include water soluble, air erasable, and heat erasable.
Water Soluble Pens
Water soluble transfer pens are used to mark or trace your design directly onto the fabric.
Water soluble refers to the fact that once your stitching is done, you can remove the markings by using either a wet washcloth, or spray bottle, or even by soaking the fabric (for larger designs or ones that are not completely removed by washcloth and/or spray bottle).
Make sure to check your fabric care instructions to confirm it can handle being fully immersed in water.
Pros
The marks are semi-permanent - they won’t disappear until you actively remove them with water
Allows ample time to work on your stitches
Does not leave permanent marks on fabric
Cons
May need to go over the design multiple times to get enough ink on the fabric
Marker tip pens can “catch” on your fabric; Not recommended for delicate or thin fabrics
Marker tip pens do not easily mark very small, fine details
Markings can run or bleed on certain lightweight fabrics
Air Erasable Pens
Air erasable marker designs disappear within hours to a few days, depending on temperature, humidity, and how much ink was deposited into the fabric.
I’ve read several reviews stating the ink will reappear after ironing the fabric. This simply means there is ink still present in the fabric. A good wash or 30 minutes soak will ensure the ink is completely removed.
Air erasable pens are great for small, quick-to-stitch designs. I always keep one in my sewing kit for those last minute design adjustments while I’m working.
Pros
No markings to erase when the project is done
Cons
Your design may disappear quicker than you can complete the project
May need to trace over the design multiple times to deposit enough ink into the fabric
Marker tip pens can “catch” on your fabric; Not recommended for delicate or very thin fabrics
Does not easily mark very fine details
Can be difficult to mark your line precisely due to the larger marker tip
Markings can run or bleed on certain lightweight or silky fabrics
Heat Erasable Pens
These pens are designed so that your markings will disappear with heat from an iron once stitching is complete. These are essentially the same as the other fabric marking pens on the list. They can come with either ballpoint tips or felt-tips.
In reading some of the reviews, a common complaint is that the markings may reappear in colder temperatures. Washing the fabric will get rid of any remaining markings.
The Madam Sew pens are my favorite, however, the white pen for marking on dark fabrics does not work at all. These markings are fully removed with an iron, from my experience.
Pros
Marks the fabric very easily
Various colors allow for use light to medium colored fabrics
Markings stay on the fabric until you iron
Cons
The ink can become “globby” at times
Markings may reappear in colder temperatures; may require washing to remove
2 —
Pencils
Using a very sharp pencil, whether a regular writing pencil or a pencil designed specifically for marking fabric, is an effective way of transferring your designs. I recommend keeping a handheld sharpener on hand, and to re-sharpen often.
Trace your design using a lightbox or by drawing freehand, using light pressure and short strokes. Avoid digging into the fabric with the lead to avoid breaking the lead.
Regular Lead Pencil
My favorite pencil is the Matte Blackwing (not affiliated). This pencil has soft lead, and makes a nice dark line. Also, you can get a very sharp point with the Blackwing pencil sharpener. Yes, these are pricey, and I held off for a long time on purchasing, but I am very happy with these pencils. I don’t think I’ll ever use a regular pencil for marking my fabric ever again!
Generally, pencil-markings are non-removable. However, you may be able to remove markings with a kneaded eraser. But this will not likely work on every fabric, and I would suggest marking very lightly if you plan on removing marks afterwards. I would also suggest testing on a scrap piece of fabric before committing.
For very detailed drawings, this really is the best tool to use.
Pros
Works well for light to medium colored fabrics
Works best for tracing or drawing highly detailed designs
Markings may be removed on some fabrics; I suggest testing on a scrap of fabric first
Cons
Permanently marks most fabrics
May smudge if rubbed or touched
Blackwing Matte Pencils
Blackwing
Water Soluble Pencil
Water soluble pencils are designed to leave marks on your fabric until removed with a damp cloth or until washed. Mark lightly for easier removal.
Recommended for use on washable materials, as the lines may not be fully removed by soaking alone. Product usage guidelines recommend removing all marks completely before pressing to avoid setting the design into your fabric.
Pros
Good for marking on darker fabrics
Cons
Lead tends to break easily
Must be sharpened often
Marks can be rubbed off unintentionally before finishing project
Lines are not as clear as other transfer methods (such as pens or transfer paper)
Heat Transfer Pencil
This method is slightly different from any of the previous methods mentioned above. Rather than tracing your design onto the fabric, you will trace the design onto paper. You can trace directly on the paper upon which the design was either printed or hand-drawn, or you can trace it onto tracing paper. When tracing, make sure the image is flipped horizontally to ensure it is transferred onto the fabric in the correct orientation.
After tracing your design with the heat transfer pencil, lay the paper on the fabric, securing it with tape or pins. Make certain the side of the paper with the tracing is laying directly against the fabric.
Set your iron to the cotton setting and place the iron over your design for 20 seconds at a time. Lift the iron and place it down again in a different area. To avoid the pattern shifting, do not slide the iron over the design. You may need to go over the design with the iron multiple times.
Markings may wash out of 100% cotton, but may not wash out of cotton blends. Product usage guidelines suggest marking very lightly and to avoid using hard pressure.
One Amazon reviewer suggested using window cleaner to erase the transfer lines - Spray the area and scrub with an old toothbrush, followed by a rinse in cold water.
Pros
Eliminates the need to use a lightbox if tracing directly onto a printed design
Good for heavier fabrics in which the lightbox method doesn’t work
Cons
Permanently marks the fabric
Lead breaks easily
Must be sharpened constantly
Cannot mark very fine details, as the hot iron tends to flatten out the wax lines
3 —
Transfer Paper
There are 2 types of transfer paper - those that imprint your design directly onto the fabric, and those that do not. The versions that do not imprint your design lay over the fabric while stitching and are removed once stitching is complete.
Transfer Paper That Imprints Design on Fabric
Transfer papers can imprint your design directly on the fabric. This works by tracing your design through the paper, which leaves a residue on the fabric from which you can stitch your design. To trace your design, you can use a stylus, a pencil, or a ballpoint pen that has run out of ink.
Center the transfer paper over the fabric, making sure the waxy side is facing the right side of the fabric. Place the pattern on top of the transfer paper. Pin or tape down each layer to eliminate shifting. Be sure to press hard enough with the stylus to transfer the design to the fabric through the layers of paper.
Dressmakers paper
Reusable and water soluble. Wax-free versions claim there are no smears or smudges when erasing lines. Lines can be sponged, washed out, or brushed off of the stitched fabric.
Pros
Removable once stitching is complete
Comes in many colors to allow for marking on light to dark colored fabrics
Really visible, strong lines
Cons
Can be tricky to keep your design in place to avoid shifting
Markings may rub off before you are done stitching
Carbon paper
Carbon paper works the same as dressmakers paper, except that it transfers carbon onto the fabric. Most types are reusable. Works well for light colored fabrics, as well as other types of materials (wood, ceramics, metal, glass, etc.).
Pros
Ideal for tracing more intricate designs
Really visible, strong lines
Cons
Generally non-removable (although you may want to experiment with different fabrics using a kneaded eraser)
Can be tricky to keep your design in place to avoid shifting
Works with light fabrics only
Transfer Paper That Does Not Imprint Design Onto Fabric
These transfer methods work by placing your printed design on top of your fabric while you stitch. The paper or stabilizer upon which your design is printed or drawn is stitched through until your project is done. After stitching, the stabilizer or paper is gently removed by either tearing it away, or dissolving it in water.
Some stabilizers have a sticky backing which allows you to stick it directly onto the fabric without the need for pins or tape. Some stabilizers are printable, while others are not.
Although these methods pose no danger of leaving marks on your fabric, they are also the most awkward transfer methods due to needing to stitch through the extra layer.
Water Soluble Stabilizer
Print, trace, or draw your design onto the stabilizer.
Attach the stabilizer to your fabric according to the package instructions. Stitch through the stabilizer and the base fabric.
Once finished stitching, soak the fabric in warm to hot water, making sure to give the fabric a final rinse before allowing it to dry.
Pros
Prevents stitches from “sinking” into the fabric
Due to the product’s stiff quality, may allow for hoopless embroidery for small projects
Cons
Dulls your needles quicker
Not as pleasant to stitch through
Not as easy to obtain accurate stitches
Tissue paper/Tracing Paper
Using tissue paper or tracing paper works best with heavy weight or thick fabrics, or with any project in which the lightbox method will not work.
Trace your pattern onto regular tracing paper or tissue paper. Baste (or pin) the paper onto your fabric and then stitch your design, going through both the paper and the base fabric with each stitch. When you're finished, carefully tear away the paper.
I tried stitching with both tracing paper and tissue paper and generally the effect was the same. It is not easy to get super accurate stitches with either paper. The tissue paper was easier to stitch through compared to the tracing paper, and tore away from the completed stitching more easily.
Pros
Resolves the need to remove design lines and markings
Easiest to use for simple stitch designs and for designs on hard-to-mark fabric such as denim
Cons
Tearing away the paper may pull your stitches unintentionally
Not as enjoyable to stitch through
For designs that require small stitches, the paper begins to tear and detach from the fabric
Not as easy to obtain accurate stitches
Summary
I have tried all of the methods above in one form or another. And because I prefer neat stitching and more intricate designs, my go-to method is to use a lightbox for tracing directly onto the fabric whenever possible. I also take a long time to finish my projects, so my marking tool of choice is a heat or water erasable pen.
If you liked this post, you might also want to check out the printable patterns available in my shop.
