The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Embroidery Thread
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When you are just getting started with embroidery, the choices in thread can seem overwhelming. Don’t let the numerous options get you down! There are a few key things you need to know to get started, and all that information is contained in this post.
Keep reading to find out about the different types of embroidery thread and what project each one is best suited for.
Embroidery Thread 101
EMBROIDERY THREAD TYPES
When choosing thread for your project, keep these 3 things in mind:
The thickness and type of fabric you’re using;
The needle size that best fits both your thread and fabric; and
The types of design elements and stitches you will be embroidering.
All of these factors will affect your thread choice. For example, a thicker or tougher fabric may require a thicker needle. But if you’re using a fine embroidery thread (such as a single strand of 6-stranded floss), a thinner needle should do the trick. Additionally, keep in mind the type of stitches you would like to use. For most basic embroidery stitches, 6-stranded floss should fulfill your needs.
Ultimately, it is best to experiment with each combination of fabric, thread, and needle to find the best fit for each project. Over time you will be able to intuitively select the correct tools. You may also find this post about choosing the right needle for your project helpful.
For most embroidery projects, your typical 6-stranded floss will be sufficient. However, so that you can fully understand your choices when it comes to choosing a thread, I will be reviewing the following types of thread in this article:
Stranded Floss (Mouliné)
Pearl Cotton (Coton Perlé)
Metallic Single-Strand Thread
Tapestry Wool
Specialty Threads
I chose to focus on DMC and Anchor brands, as these are the brands I use for my projects. Based on my personal experience, commercially available brands outside of the two mentioned here are inferior in quality and I do not recommend them unless purchasing from a specialty thread shop.
TERMS TO KNOW
To help you better understand the differences in threads, I thought it important to describe some key thread manufacturing processes and terms.
A MERCERIZED thread is one in which a finishing treatment was applied which improves dye uptake and tear strength, reduces shrinkage, and bestows a brilliant luster. The treatment process is called mercerization. A DOUBLE MERCERIZED fabric or yarn is one that has undergone the process twice, which further increases its softness and luster. Both DMC’s and Anchor’s floss are double mercerized.
A thread’s staple length refers to the length of individual fibers of cotton making up the strand of thread. LONG STAPLE COTTON contains fibers at least 1 ¼ inches long, while EXTRA-LONG STAPLE COTTON contains fibers 2 inches and longer. The longer the cotton fiber strands, the higher quality, strength, and softness of the material. Additionally, the thread or fabric has fewer exposed fiber ends, which prevents pilling and tearing. DMC’s embroidery floss is made from long staple cotton, while Anchor states its floss is made from extra-long staple cotton.
EMBROIDERY THREAD BRANDS
DMC is a world-recognized brand based in France. Its standard 6-stranded embroidery floss (or simply, “floss”) comes in 100% double mercerized long staple cotton. This thread comes in a variety of styles, finishes, and materials.
DMC’s other embroidery thread offerings include pearl cotton, metallic thread, tapestry wool, and floche, among others. These also come in a variety of materials, finishes, and lengths.
Anchor, also a world-renowned brand, is owned by the Coats & Clark Company and is manufactured in Germany. Anchor brand offers 6-stranded cotton, pearl cotton, coton à broder, tapestry wool, metallic thread, and other specialty threads. Its floss, similar to DMC, is 100% double mercerized cotton. However, Anchor states its floss is made of extra-long staple cotton, categorizing it as a higher grade “Egyptian” cotton.
I use both brands of thread, depending on the particular project, as each has something different to offer. Anchor’s stranded floss, although less consistent in individual thread thickness than DMC, is a slightly thinner, more delicate thread that I particularly like for minimalistic outline work. However, despite Anchor’s claim regarding its use of extra-long staple cotton, I would argue DMC’s floss feels softer and silkier to the touch.
I like DMC’s vast array of colors and thread varieties, but I prefer working with Anchor spools over skeins (for the noobs out there, it’s pronounced “skayns”). This is mainly due to the ease of use (I find that the thread tangles less) and for storage reasons (it’s much easier to pop a spool onto a thread rack than to rewind each skein onto a bobbin!).
For beginners, I would recommend investing in the DMC floss if you prefer to stick to one brand. However, you may find that availability differs depending on your region, which may ultimately force you to choose one brand over the other. But, as you become more advanced, you may do as I have done and invest in the full palette of both brands. Yay thread!
Embroidery Thread Overview
Stranded Floss
Stranded cotton floss (a.k.a., Mouliné, embroidery floss, or simply, floss) is 6 strands of cotton thread that are wrapped together into a single skein or spool. The thread can be used as-is, or it can be separated into individual threads or into groups of 2 to 5 strands, as needed. This allows for maximum versatility, as you can easily customize the thickness of the thread for your individual design plans.
I highly recommend beginners start with the stranded floss over other styles of embroidery thread. With a wide variety of colors and materials available, this is my go-to choice for virtually any embroidery project.
I will be reviewing the following offerings in stranded floss below:
(1) DMC Solid Color Floss;
(2) DMC Floss Variations;
(3) Anchor Solid Color Floss; and
(4) Anchor Floss Variations.
1 —
DMC SOLID COLOR FLOSS
Made from 100% double mercerized long staple cotton. 100% colorfast and fade resistant.
Best for virtually any hand embroidery or cross-stitch project. Especially suited to thread painting due to the number of colors available.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 506
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins
Care & Washing: Can be washed frequently at high temperatures (up to 95°C/203°F).
Pros
Widely available in big box stores, specialty shops, and online
Thickness is easily customizable for different projects
Silkier to the touch than Anchor floss
Wide variety in colors
Cons
Usually pricier than Anchor floss per yard
Not preferable for surface weaving or satin stitch if you like a very neat finish
2 —
DMC STRANDED FLOSS VARIATIONS
DMC Color Variations
Multi-colored stranded thread. Allows you to subtly change colors without having to change the thread. Double mercerized for sheen. Made from 100% long staple cotton. 100% colorfast and fade resistant. Guaranteed color consistency from one skein to the next.
Best used for subtle color variation when exact placement of colors isn’t needed or desired. Can be used with all embroidery and cross-stitch techniques.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 60
Length: 8.7yds/8m Skeins
Care & Washing: Wash in warm water up to 60°C/140°F.
DMC Coloris
A single stranded thread featuring four colors. The color palette of each skein is designed to be complementary, creating a rich, harmonizing look. Made from 100% cotton.
Best used for cross-stitch, but can be used with embroidery stitches, especially flat point.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 24
Length: 8.7yds/8m Skeins
Care & Washing: Use a mild detergent. After washing, wrap the embroidery in a towel to remove excess water, then dry horizontally. To iron, put the embroidery on a clean cloth (preferably while still damp), and iron on the reverse side. Always keep the recommended heat setting for the fabric in mind.
DMC Light Effects
A glimmering stranded metallic-looking thread. Made from 100% polyester. Use on its own or combine it with a strand of solid cotton floss for a more subtle touch of sparkle. The light effects thread has a more subdued glimmer than a true metallic thread. I would compare this thread to glitter, whereas the Diamant thread is more similar to a sequin or disco-ball look.
Work with shorter lengths of thread (around 12”) for the best stitching experience. Best used sparingly to give added sparkle. Can be difficult to work with and tends to fray. Use with thread conditioner or beeswax to enhance glide.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 36
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins
Care & Washing: Wash in lukewarm water (30°C/86°F) with a mild detergent. Do not bleach. Wrap in a towel after washing to absorb the excess water. Dry flat.
DMC Satin Floss
Shiny, glossy stranded cotton that glides easily through fabric. Perfect for surface embroidery stitches. Made from 100% Rayon.
Best used sparingly in small areas, as it can be difficult to work with. For easier handling, moisten the thread with a damp cloth before threading the needle. Also try using thread conditioner to enhance usability.
For tips on using satin floss, check out this page. https://cloudsfactory.net/blog/stitching-with-satin-floss/
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 60
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins
Care & Washing: Can be washed multiple times at 60°C/140°F.
DMC Mouliné Étoile
Étoile, which is French for “star,” is a sparkly stranded cotton that adds a delicate and elegant shimmer to your project. Made from 73% cotton, 27% metallic polyamide. Not as harsh or brashy looking as metallic threads; adds delicate, intermittent sparkle.
This thread is more matte in appearance than regular embroidery floss. You can mix this thread with regular embroidery floss of the same color number. For example, C603 in the Mouliné Étoile matches 603 in the regular Mouliné.
Best for adding subtle sparkle to large areas. The Étoile floss has a more crinkly appearance to it, and it may be a bit more challenging to achieve perfectly straight, flat stitches. Use with thread conditioner or beeswax to enhance usability.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 35
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins
3 —
ANCHOR SOLID COLOR STRANDED FLOSS
Anchor stranded cotton is a 6-strand, extra-long staple 100% “Egyptian” cotton thread. It is double mercerized, resulting in a brilliant luster, unique softness, and intense light reflection.
Best for virtually any hand or surface embroidery project, especially where very fine detail is required. Also ideal for cross-stitch and thread painting.
Colors: 444
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins, 9.7yd/10m Spools
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 95°C/203°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Use non-chlorine bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
Pros
Widely available in big box stores in certain geographical areas
Thickness is easily customizable for different projects
Individual strands are thinner than DMC floss
Typically cheaper than DMC floss
Cons
Not as soft and silky to the touch as DMC floss
Not the best choice for surface weaving or satin stitch if you prefer a very neat finish
Not as many color choices as DMC
Depending on your location, may not be widely available
Not widely available online
4 —
ANCHOR STRANDED FLOSS VARIATIONS
Anchor Ombré Floss
Gives a beautifully subtle color change throughout your embroidery work. The Anchor ombré floss is similar to DMC’s monochromatic color variations thread. Extra-long staple 100% “Egyptian” cotton.
As with all variegated color floss, this floss is best used for lettering, borders, and filling in large blocks of color.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 16
Care & Washing:
Anchor Multicolor Combinations
Anchor multicolor combinations thread is available in 24 different color combinations - with up to 6 complimentary colors that change every few inches for a stunning variegated effect. Extra-long staple 100% “Egyptian” cotton thread.
Best used for lettering, borders, and filling in large blocks of color.
Size: 25 (Individual strands)
Colors: 24
Care & Washing: Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
Pearl Cotton
Pearl cotton (coton perlé) is a luminous, mercerized cotton thread. Pearl cotton stands out from stranded cotton in that it is a single larger, non-divisible wrapped strand. Pearl cotton, depending on brand and size, comes in both skeins and balls. Due to its rounded finish and thread thicknesses, pearl cotton creates a lush, uniform finish.
Best for cross-stitch, embroidery (including surface weaving), needlepoint, hardanger, blackwork, redwork, punch needle, pulled thread, smocking, applique, and other types of creative stitchery. I will review the following different offerings in pearl cotton in this section:
(1) DMC Solid Color Pearl Cotton;
(2) DMC Pearl Cotton Variations;
(3) Anchor Solid Color Pearl Cotton; and
(4) Anchor Pearl Cotton Variations.
1 —
DMC SOLID COLOR PEARL COTTON
With a reputation as the most beautiful thread in the world, this luminous cotton thread is highly mercerized, non-divisible, and on a twisted skein. It's soft and silky.
Size: 5, 8, 12 (the higher the number, the finer/thinner the thread)
Colors:
Size 5 (Skeins): 318
Size 5 (Balls): 5
Size 8 (Balls): 237
Size 12 (Balls): 40
Lengths:
Size 5 Skeins: 27.3yd/25m
Size 5, 8, & 12 Balls: 131yd/119.8m
Care & Washing: Can be washed at high temperatures up to 95°C/203°F.
Pros
Color variety
Widely available in big box stores, specialty stores, and online
Wide selection of sizes
Non-divisible
Cons
Non-divisible (makes it less useful for a wider variety of projects, but is also part of its appeal)
The length of the thread makes it difficult to wrap onto a bobbin
Unwrapping pearl cotton can become a tangled mess if not done properly!
2 —
DMC PEARL COTTON VARIATIONS
DMC Color Variations Pearl Cotton
DMC pearl cotton variations offer guaranteed DMC color consistency from one skein to the next. Subtlety is the secret behind the beauty of DMC's Pearl Cotton Variations. This "over-dyed," non-divisible cotton thread features multiple colors that harmoniously progress from one to the other.
Best used for cross-stitch, embroidery, needlepoint, hardanger, punch needle, pulled thread, smocking, applique, as well as other types of creative stitchery. Particularly useful for lettering, borders, and filling in large areas.
Size: 5
Colors: 60
Lengths: 27.3yd/25m
Care & Washing: Can be washed at high temperatures of up to 95°C/203°F.
DMC Metallic Pearl Cotton
Add a touch of shimmer with every stitch when you choose DMC metallic pearl cotton. A non-divisible thread on a twisted skein. Tarnish resistant.
Beautiful as the star of the project or as a sparkly accent, it's the perfect thread for needlework or embroidery pieces. As with any metallic thread, it can be difficult to work with and tends to fray easily. Try using thread conditioner or beeswax to enhance glide and usability.
Size: 5
Colors: 2
Length: 27yd/25m Skeins
Material: Polyester metallic and viscose blend
Care & Washing: Wash by hand with a mild detergent in lukewarm water (40°C/104°F). Don't use bleach or chlorine. If needed, press with a cool iron using a clean, dry ironing cloth. Block or smooth work out on a flat surface and let it air dry completely.
3 —
ANCHOR SOLID COLOR PEARL COTTON
With a unique silky touch, Anchor pearl cotton is suitable for a wide range of projects. It comes in skeins or balls to suit different usage techniques.
Size: 5, 8, 12
Colors: 206
Length:
5g, 50g Skeins
5g, 10g, 20g Balls
Material: Cotton
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 95°C/203°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Use non-chlorine bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
Pros
Great for surface weaving and satin stitch
Cons
More limited color selection than DMC
Size of skeins make it difficult to wrap onto a bobbin
Unwrapping pearl cotton can become a tangled mess!
4 —
ANCHOR PEARL COTTON VARIATIONS
Anchor Multicolor Pearl Cotton
Anchor Pearl Cotton multicolour skeins come with up to 6 complimentary colors that change every few inches for a stunning variegated effect. Available in 24 different color combinations, they bring a colorful stitching experience to any technique.
Size: 5, 8
Colors: 24
Length:
5g, 50g Skeins
5g, 10g, 20g Balls
Material: Cotton
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 30°C/86°F. Permanent press. Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
Anchor Metallic Pearl Cotton
Anchor metallic pearl cotton features cotton combined with a filament of metallised polyester, adding an extra shine throughout the yarn. It offers a brilliant appearance; ideal for festive projects or where a glistening finishing touch is required.
Differs from the DMC metallic pearl cotton in that the metallic filaments are intertwined with cotton (making it somewhat closer to a Mouline Étoile), rather than being an entirely metallic thread. Size information was unavailable on Anchor’s website, but it appears to be similar in size to the solid color pearl cotton.
Colors: 8
Length: 5g Skeins
Material: Cotton, metallized polyester
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 30°C/86°F. Permanent press. Do not bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on low heat.
Metallic Single-Strand Thread
Metallic single-strand thread is a smooth, rounded, non-divisible thread. Best used sparingly in small areas. Use with thread conditioner or beeswax to increase usability. I will review both:
(1) DMC’s Diamant thread; and
(2) Anchor’s metallic thread.
1 —
DMC DIAMANT THREAD
Adds instant shine to any needlecraft project. Soft and tangle-free. Purported to keep its twist as you stitch. I particularly enjoy the color options available with the Diamant thread - soft gold, muted silver, black, copper, and a beautiful rose gold.
Best used for both cross stitch and traditional embroidery. Best used sparingly.
Size: 16 (One strand is equivalent to two individual strands of DMC’s stranded embroidery thread)
Colors: 13
Length: 38.2yd/35m Spools
Material: May be 100% polyester or a mixture of viscose and polyester, depending on color
Pros
Beautiful color choices
Delicate, thin strands
Cons
Difficult to work with (as is any metallic thread)
Non-divisible
Expensive
2 —
ANCHOR METALLIC THREAD
Anchor metallic thread is a single ply fine hand embroidery thread with a chain construction.
It is available on 50m spools, making it ideal for tassel-making, cord making, and projects where longer lengths of thread are required.
Best used for freestyle embroidery, goldwork, canvas work, and all forms of counted thread embroidery where a special highlight or touch of luxury is required.
Size: Single Ply
Colors: 8
Length: 50m Spools
Material: 58% Metallized polyester, 42% Textured polyamide
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 95°C/203°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Use non-chlorine bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
Tapestry Wool
Tapestry wool is a high loft, smooth, non-divisible yarn. Its twist and thickness give it excellent canvas coverage for cross-stitching. The wool is combed and twilled, which gives it a smooth, even finished texture. Because this is a wool yarn, it has a matte finish, as opposed to the slight luster typical of other embroidery threads.
Although not as versatile as other needlepoint threads, tapestry yarn can be stitched successfully with multiple strands threaded in an extra-large tapestry needle. Best used on larger mesh canvases (sizes 10-14). Use for canvas embroidery, needlepoint, or tapestry.
Reviewed below are:
(1) DMC tapestry wool; and
(2) Anchor tapestry wool.
1 —
DMC TAPESTRY WOOL
This material is typically worked on a larger mesh canvas (sizes 10 to 14). It's recommended that you work with yarn lengths no longer than 18-20" to prevent fraying and wearing while stitching. For areas where the design is the same color, DMC recommends using skeins from the same dye lot. Moth-proof and colorfast.
Best for decorative needlepoint projects. Use it to embellish pillows, chair sets, wall hangings, pictures, or even wardrobe accessories like bags.
Colors: 390
Length: 8.7yd/8m Skeins
Material: 100% Virgin wool
Care & Washing: Dry clean only. If needed, press with an iron on the lowest heat setting using a clean, dry ironing cloth. Do not bleach or use chlorine.
2 —
ANCHOR TAPESTRY WOOL
Anchor tapestry wool (or, “tapisserie”) is made from 100% pure virgin wool. Durable and hard-wearing. Features a tight twist to minimize fraying when working on canvases. The uniform twist and 4 ply construction provide an even and manageable cover for canvas. Colorfast and moth-proof.
Size: 4-Ply
Colors: 475
Length:
10m Skeins
20g Hanks (select colors only)
Material: 100% pure virgin wool
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 40°C/104°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Do not bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on medium heat.
Specialty Threads
Below are the brand-specific offerings of specialty threads for both DMC and Anchor.
Anchor Coton à Broder (Embroidery Cotton)
Anchor coton à broder is a lustrous, tightly twisted, mercerized 4 ply cotton thread. Suitable for general embroidery use. Made from extra-long staple 100% “Egyptian” cotton.
Best used for blackwork and whitework, as well as for drawn thread, openwork embroidery, and general freestyle techniques.
Size: 4 different sizes
Colors: 82 (Depending on size)
Length: 30m Skeins
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 95°C/203°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Use non-chlorine bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on high heat.
DMC Floche
Consists of non-divisible twisted strands. Each strand equals two strands of DMC 6-strand floss (size 16). Made from mercerized cotton.
Best used for needlepoint, cutwork, whitework, smocking, shadow work, open work, and other types of specialty stitching. Although the strand is thicker than a mouliné, it is ideal for detailed embroidery designs.
Size: 16
Colors: 83
Length: 150yd Skeins
Anchor Marlitt
Anchor Marlitt is a strandable 4 ply, loosely twisted embroidery thread with a beautiful luster. Can be stranded down to a single ply, where necessary. It is made from 100% viscose rayon, which gives it a soft, silky touch and a spectacular high sheen.
Suited for all types of freestyle and counted thread embroidery. Makes a beautiful alternative to stranded cotton where additional sheen or luster is required.
Size: 4 Ply
Colors: 90
Length: 10m Skeins
Care & Washing: Machine washable up to 60°C/140°F. Spin and rinse as normal. Do not bleach. Do not tumble dry. Iron on low heat.
Summary
For ease of reference, I’ve compiled a table with all the embroidery thread stats in one chart. DMC threads are on the left-hand side of the chart, and Anchor is on the right side for easy side-by-side comparison. Threads are then broken down by the brand’s offerings in each category.
As mentioned before, DMC’s stranded floss has the widest range of colors, styles, and thread types compared to Anchor brand. However, if you prefer simplicity and ease of use, I would argue that Anchor spools are more user-friendly (especially in terms of storage). DMC has the advantage over Anchor in all other thread categories, save tapestry wool. As for specialty threads, each brand stands alone in its offerings, and there is no true comparison.
Winner By Thread Category
6-Stranded Floss: DMC
Pearl Cotton: DMC
Metallic Single-Thread: DMC
Tapestry Wool: Anchor
Specialty Threads: NA
If you thought this article was informative, you might also like my post comparing design transfer methods.
